I've been continuing to work on the Phantom Red Death costume. His tunic required a lot of piecing of different fabrics and trims, each being hand-basted before being machine sewn. Normally a top like this would open in the front, but with it being so complex, and there being a huge cloak worn over it, I decided to make the opening at the back instead. I tried it on Rex to check the fit...
The next step was to make the sleeves. I built them up in layers, basting then machine stitching each row of gathers one at a time...
The completed sleeves sewn into the armholes...
I have a special technique for when I make a top with huge puffed sleeves and there's an underarm seam. I always hem the edges of each puff before attaching them, and then sew each puff onto the sleeve lining just up to the side seam allowance. Then when I finally sew the underarm seams I make sure the puffs are folded deep inside the sleeve and so they don't get caught in the stitching. Then when the sleeve is turned right side out, the puff edges are loose and I'll line them up and stitch them together by hand....
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