Antique Lilac

Getting Started

4/17/2025

I've created a pdf with three pattern pages as shown. Note that some of the pieces are actual Patterns with seam allowances included, but all the important pieces are Templates, which do not include seam allowances. Those need to be traced onto the wrong side of the fabric, and cut out by adding extra seam allowances. The traced lines then become the stitching lines.

*Just click on any one to download the pdf, and print out the full size patterns. Note - the Full length sleeve template on the third page is not used for the first two gowns, just for the red, black, and gold version at the very end.

the Bodice

Trace the bodice template onto medium weight iron-on interfacing. Cut it out, adding seam allowances, then press it onto the wrong side of your chosen bodice fabric. Do not cut it out just yet. First pin the reinforced bodice piece right sides together to the lining fabric. Then cut out both fabrics at the same time, so both layers are identical.

Then, before removing pins, machine stitch up the back side, across the top, and down the other back side. Remove the pins, clip the corners and curves, and position the pattern template on the lining side and trace the darts and front seam allowances.

Machine stitch the side and back darts in the lining and reinforced bodice separately, on the wrong sides of each layer. Clip the darts.
The centre front darts are trickier, especially at the top, so it's important to baste them by hand first in order to get a nicely shaped bust. I find it helps to partially clip the curves (part way in) to make the two sides of the dart fit together nicely on the traced stitching lines. Yes, it takes way more time doing it ny hand first, but it's definitely worth the extra effort. After basting, then you can stitch the darts on the machine. Then clip the curves all the way.

After sewing the bodice, turn it right side out, work out all the points, and then baste just across the top edge to hold everything in place, and create a nice flat edge. Then press carefully.

*Next - the over skirts

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Starting at the Beginning

4/16/2025

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I have always loved this Pink Sari Gown, worn by Sarah and every other Fashion sized girl when they first arrived, including Agnes. It was originally intended to be an elaborate contemporary evening gown. But when I needed an extra 'Medieval' style gown for a photoshoot, I made some simple slip-on stretchy tricot lower sleeves to make the gown look more 'Medieval Fantasy'.

But I've found the original separate hanging sleeves to be difficult to deal with, as they snap onto a tight elastic band that is a challenge to put on over the doll's hands - or her hands have to be removed. Which is a pain. So, I thought I should rework the pattern so the sleeves are actually attached to the bodice. So, that's what I did. And while I was at it I made the lower part of the bodice a bit wider. The Pink Sari Gown was made from a pattern originally designed for a Slim Iplehouse FID with medium bust. My SartoriaJ 45APH girls are very close in size, but they do have much larger hips, so the bottom of the bodice could be a bit wider, both to better fit the doll's hips, and to accommodate the thickness of all the gathered skirt fabric.

Developing the New Patterns

Now, making nice fitting doll clothes in quarter scale is a challenge since we have no choice but to work with full size human scale fabrics. Even the finest fabrics available are still four times as thick as a proper quarter scale doll outfit should theoretically be made from. So, to minimize the number of seams, and the resulting thickness, I designed a one-piece bodice pattern to create a lovely close-fitting silhouette. The new pattern is made up of all the separate bodice pieces from the Pink Sari Gown pattern, with one big difference. In order to make attached sleeves, the new bodice needed the back to rise almost to the shoulder to create a half circle armhole curve for the bottom edge of the sleeves to be sewn onto.

So I needed to make a test sample. I traced the pattern template onto medium weight interfacing. This is a very important step as it keeps the bodice fabric rigid and prevents it from distorting due to parts of the pattern being on the fabric bias. For the test bodice I didn't need the top and bottom seam allowances, so just added seam allowances along the front darts...

After sewing the bodice darts, I tested the fit on Naomi. It was perfect. The back of the bodice does not overlap, as it will have eyelets and lace up, making it fit a wider range of MSD size dolls, all depending on how it's laced up.

With the new pattern tested and approved, it was time to start with the good fabric. I decided that I would make two gowns at the same time, both from scarves I'd found at Value Village. One of the gowns would be made from the leftover pink sequinned scarf I'd used for Agnes' pink and gray gown. The underskirt would be from a very fine, plain, pale pink, sari scarf.

The second gown would be from a silky mauve scarf with a wide dangly lace edge. The underskirt would be from a very fine, plain, lavender, sari scarf. I removed the wide lace trim from the silky scarf and would reattach it where needed later.

the Petticoats

Before starting on the two gowns, I first needed to make the petticoats to go underneath. I like to make them first since they will influence the shape of the gown worn over it. And I won't feel like making them after I've finished the dress. So, I cut out two sets of ruffles, and started sewing. I like lace on the bottom ruffles. I know it's not historically correct, but my gowns are 'Fantasy Medieval' and not bound by historical correctness in the first place, so I don't care. I like lace, so I'm using it.

I always make the petticoats with a wide, curved yoke at the top. That moves the bulk of the petticoat down out of the waist area and down to the hips, making for a nicer form-fitting bodice. I also never 'gather' the fabric into a waistband, as I find that gathering makes the fabric bulge out way too much, especially when making doll clothes at a smaller scale. Instead I always pleat the fabric into the waistband in order to keep the bulk down and create a smoother silhouette. I also pleat the lower ruffle by using long needle to fold the fabric under the presser foot as I slowly stitched on the sewing machine.

*Next - the pattern pdf, and starting the bodices

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Medieval Elf Gowns

4/15/2025

5 Comments

In March 2025 SartoriaJ released some beautiful new elves in both SD and MSD sizes. They were shown wearing gorgeous outfits inspired by the elves in LOTR. However many people were very disappointed when the costumes were only available for the larger dolls, with nothing offered for the MSD versions. Which got me to thinking. I'd been wanting to make some 'elf' costumes for two years now, ever since my Elf Agnes arrived. I had even pulled fabrics to make them from. I thought maybe now would be the perfect time to actually make them, release the patterns, and take photos along the way to create a step-by-step tutorial.

These are the two gowns I made...

I will be sharing the patterns and the construction process in an ongoing series here on my Blog, so stay tuned.

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RRFF Outfits for Sale

4/13/2025

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I've decided to offer up several of my RRFF outfits.
*Prices are in US dollars and do not include shipping
To inquire about purchasing something, email me at - [email protected]

Pink Fiesta Party Dress (2)
$50 US

Outfit includes: Dress with beaded neckline and attached lace-edged petticoat, and bow chair clip
(doll and shoes not included)

Orange Fiesta Jumper Set
$50. US

Outfit includes; floral jumper with beaded neckline, and attached lace-edged petticoat, White T-shirt, Bow hair clip
(doll and shoes not included)

Pink Fiesta Jumper Set
$50. US

Outfit includes; floral jumper with beaded neckline, and attached lace-edged petticoat, White T-shirt, Bow hair clip
(doll and shoes not included)

Pumpkin Costume
$65. US

Ensemble includes: Green T-shirt and tights, pumpkin overalls and hat, mask (doll and shoes not included)

Clown Costume
$70. US

Ensemble includes: Striped T-shirt and socks, colourful coveralls, hat with yarn wig attached, mask (doll and shoes not included)

Pink Lace Dress Set
$75. US

ensemble includes: Lace dress with beaded neckline & sleeve cuffs, attached petticoat, tights, bow hair clip
(doll and shoes not included)

To inquire about purchasing something, email me at - [email protected]

2 Comments

More Summer Fiesta Outfits

4/12/2025

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It seemed like there was no end to the amount of 'Summer Fiesta' fabric, and since I wanted to use it all up, I ended up making two Ruby Red Jumper sets as well. So, even though I had purchased it with the intention of making three matching outfits for Benny and her girls, I ended up spending all of March making a total of seven outfit out of it.

The jumper sets are not identical since the fabric had both wide pink and orange sections, so one jumper featured the pink,

and the other featured the orange.

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More Summer Fiesta Party Dresses

4/11/2025

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After having made the dresses for Benny's family, there was still a lot of fabric left over, so I made some party dresses for my Ruby Red girls...

The two dresses are almost identical, with beaded necklines, and lace-edged petticoats, and perfect wear for a party...

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Matching Outfits

4/10/2025

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I decided to finally tackle some fabric that had been lingering in one of my bins for the last few years. It was from a summer dress I'd picked up at Value Village with the intent of making some colourful outfits for Benny and her girls. I thought it was high time to make something out of it, and this is what I ended up doing.