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the Cap & Flower Wreath

5/1/2025

10 Comments

 
I really like the beaded wired cap I'd made for some of Naomi's gowns, and thought the mauve elf gown could use one as well. So I traced the cap template onto medium iron-on interfacing twice. I pressed the interfacing onto the wrong side of the mauve fabric, then cut the two pieces out along with the cotton lining fabric. I stitched the cap together, and then realized I was supposed to attach the trim BEFORE attaching the lining. So I started over and cut out two more cap pieces and lining.
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The centre seams of the cap and lining are each sewn together. Then the trim is sewn a seam allowance away from the front edge of the cap. Then the lining is pinned to the cap right sides together, and the outside seam is stitched, leaving an opening at the centre back to facilitate turning the cap right side out. Clip the corners and curves, turn the cap right side out, and stitch the back opening closed. I always baste the finished edges to make nice crisp edges.

Then it's time to add the wiring. I use a medium gauge wire (the label fell off years ago so I don't know the actual size) and start by making a small curl at the end of the wire and stitching it to the centre back of the cap lining, being careful not to stitch through to the good side. Then I stitch the wire to the cap as shown in the photo below, ending with another curl at centre back. Then I start picot beading all the way around...
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The good side...
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The finished cap showing all the beading.
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The pink lace gown demanded a flower wreath instead of a cap. So I crocheted a chain stitch long enough to fit over and around the doll's wig, then single crocheted in every chain stitch, and then a second row of single crochet. The ends were stitched together, and then the flowers were stitched to the head band. After going all the way around, I stitched two pink silk ribbon bows to the back.
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Final Details

Both gowns required a jewelled chain hanging from the waist at centre front. So I measured a length of chain, cut it, and added a row of beads and jewelry caps to both ends. I also needed something to go in centre front at the waist, but didn't have anything suitable, so made it from a flattened filagree bead cap, with a large rhinestone and string of gold beads glued to the middle.
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​After stitching the final jewelry to the gowns, and making a simple pair of stretch under sleeves, the gowns were almost finished. I decided the pink lace overskirt wasn't quite long enough, so added a wide pink lace to the bottom to lengthen it. I also wasn't happy with the plain edge of the lace hanging sleeve, so did picot beading along the edge all the way to the bottom.
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I felt the mauve hanging sleeve still needed something, so cut another even longer hanging sleeve from pale lavender nylon tricot and stitched it into the inside of the upper sleeve. ​
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And both gowns were finally finished...
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10 Comments
Nancy
5/1/2025 06:18:27 pm

Such beautiful gowns. Your workmanship and fabric choices are just lovely.

Reply
Martha
5/1/2025 06:48:46 pm

Thank you! I was really pleased with how they turned out. In fact I'm enjoying making some more gowns from the same patterns.

Reply
Dorothy
5/1/2025 08:54:35 pm

I like the head pieces. I especially like the wired cap. Is this something that was worn historically?

The waist jewelry is beautiful.

Reply
Martha
5/2/2025 07:01:50 am

I'm not sure. I think it was inspired by Italian Renaissance.

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Chantel
5/2/2025 11:16:55 am

They're often called "Juliet caps" because of the popularity of customers worn for Romeo and Juilet - but historically worn during the Renaissance, these caps were known as 'netted cauls' or 'reta'.

The ones on the tutorial are stunning! Love how they match the gowns.

Reply
Martha
5/2/2025 03:33:38 pm

So, thanks for confirming they are definitely Italian Renaissance. I've added the netting to an earlier version a few years back, but find it's a total pain to get the doll's wig through it nicely. So I don't bother anymore.

earthspirits
5/2/2025 12:33:14 pm

Both gowns are exquisite! I love all of the amazing details and trims.

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Martha
5/4/2025 07:13:59 am

Thank you.

Reply
Donna
5/4/2025 01:56:19 am

Both gowns are so beautiful, like works of art in fabric!! I like the way you share your thought process as the gowns develop. It is always very interesting to watch how each part of the gown is created!

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Martha
5/4/2025 07:17:45 am

Thank you! I'm glad a few people actually appreciated the step by step process presented in small sections, as I didn't want to overwhelm with the entire thing at once. Although by the time I got to the red gown, it just seemed to repetitive. And I'm not even taking photos of the next one I'm working on.

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    Martha Boers is an award-winning Canadian doll maker and costumer specializing in fantasy and historical-style costumes.
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