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Getting Started

4/17/2025

2 Comments

 
I've created a pdf with three pattern pages as shown. Note that some of the pieces are actual Patterns with seam allowances included, but all the important pieces are Templates, which do not include seam allowances. Those need to be traced onto the wrong side of the fabric, and cut out by adding extra seam allowances.  The traced lines then become the stitching lines. 
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*Just click on any one to download the pdf, and print out the full size patterns. Note - the Full length sleeve template on the third page is not used for the first two gowns, just for the red, black, and gold version at the very end.
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the Bodice

Trace the bodice template onto medium weight iron-on interfacing. Cut it out, adding seam allowances, then press it onto the wrong side of your chosen bodice fabric.  Do not cut it out just yet. First pin the reinforced bodice piece right sides together to the lining fabric. Then cut out both fabrics at the same time, so both layers are identical.
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Then, before removing pins, machine stitch up the back side, across the top, and down the other back side. Remove the pins, clip the corners and curves, and position the pattern template on the lining side and trace the darts and front seam allowances. ​
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Machine stitch the side and back darts in the lining and reinforced bodice separately, on the wrong sides of each layer. Clip the darts.
The centre front darts are trickier, especially at the top, so it's important to baste them by hand first in order to get a nicely shaped bust. I find it helps to partially clip the curves (part way in) to make the two sides of the dart fit together nicely on the traced stitching lines.  Yes, it takes way more time doing it by hand first, but it's definitely worth the extra effort. After basting, then you can stitch the darts on the machine. Then clip the curves all the way.
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After sewing the bodice, turn it right side out, work out all the points, and then baste just across the top edge to hold everything in place, and create a nice flat edge. Then press carefully.
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*Next - the over skirts
2 Comments
Dorothy
4/17/2025 12:23:21 pm

I will enjoy watching the process. I can see Willie and her friends watching also.

Reply
Donna
4/17/2025 01:59:12 pm

Watching the bodice take shape as you explain the how and why of each step is fascinating. Just as your "behind the scenes" photos are photography lessons, your "behind the scenes" costume construction photos are great doll-scale sewing lessons. It is wonderful of you to take the time and effort to share your expertise with all of us!

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    Author

    Martha Boers is an award-winning Canadian doll maker and costumer specializing in fantasy and historical-style costumes.
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